October 2003
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Back on the Block The year 2003 was the fourth year of management of the vineyard under organic principals. We had come a long way and were now eligible for certification as a farm that produces grapes organically. The only thing standing in our way was an inspection by SGS the international standards and testing group. To achieve this certification was something that we wanted mostly for our own satisfaction, to know that we had passed the test and the vineyard was equal with the benchmark. We had always maintained that the vines were the most important ingredient in the wine and we believe vines grown in balance with each other and with their environment would make better wine, even if this took longer to achieve or had higher risks than vineyards with heavy intervention. We grow grapes using organic principals, but we will not produce organic wine. We want people to buy our wine because of the quality of the wine and for no other reason. If it were represented as being organic that would be an unwanted distraction. We are not going to promote the wine as coming from organic grapes on the label as again this is a distraction. Anyone who knows anything about our philosophy will know that we farm organically, as they would know that many top quality producers also do. Our heroes and heroines among wine producers of many regions, such as Domaine Leroy, Michel Chapoutier, Nicolas Joly and many others all produce amazing wine from grapes carefully husbanded along organic and even biodynamic principals. We contacted SGS to arrange for the certification inspection. Having undergone an initial inspection at the start of the venture so we knew roughly what to expect. Even so we were surprised by the detail required. We were sent a seventy nine page Organic Production Standards Manual which we needed to use in preparation for the inspection. They required to see a very detailed management plan outlining how we had successfully implemented organic standards. Reading through the document it seemed essential that we demonstrate the principle aims of organic production and the characteristics of organic systems, as well as understand the definitions laid out. We were required to write a detailed document describing our Organic Management System that answered the points in the document. For example in our organic policy we are required to explain how we are committed to the following : a) maintaining and enhancing natural resources including soil and water quality. Here we could describe our cover crops, organic applications, compost tea machine, mulching program etc. We could also describe how we deal with waste water from the cellar. b) fostering beneficial processes. Planting of cover crops, fennel etc to encourage biodiversity and attract beneficial insects etc. Cutting invasive trees to enhance water courses etc etc c) reducing external controls. We could describe our policy of minimal interference. By planting in an isolated windy area we minimize the anti mildew regime to less than half that of other vineyards. We could demonstrate how infrequently we have ever used anti mildew applications. By encouraging biodiversity we tolerate a healthy insect population. This means we do not get an imbalance of harmful insects. d) cycles and flows that lose as little as possible. We could demonstrate how we add to and improve the soil with every annual cycle. We were required to produce evidence of this as well including copies of invoices paid over the last couple of years for organic applications, mulch etc. Fortunately while Manie was with us he had kept diaries that detailed nearly every application made and we had all our invoices. The inspection was arranged for early November, three weeks after J-C returned from France so he could prepare himself. More on that next month. J-C finished his sabbatical and came back to Tulbagh. His eyes had been opened to how things are done by top producers in Cote Rotie. The big lessons learned were the attention to detail in the vineyard, the concentration on quality, care and patience in the cellar and trusting nature all the way through. There were now a pile of things to get on with at home, as well as preparing for the SGS inspection. He had to concentrate on implementing the next stage of the cellar. We had all decided on unlined concrete tanks, but we had no commitment from any builder that these could be constructed. We were aiming to get the tanks (7) built before next harvest and we set aside some money from this year's budget for this, but we needed to be sure the builder could do it. If there was to be any change in the design or builder we would need to know soon and to get the estimate sown up. We were also building better cottages. We only have two families living on the farm now and it is a top priority to make sure their accommodation is at a high standard. One of the couples is having a baby early next year so it is vital to get them sorted out. One of J-C's tasks was to proceed with the plans to renovate one of the larger unoccupied ones, move the family in there, then landscape the whole area and demolish the other poor buildings. Another task was to work out the budget for 2004. We will be restricted as the Rand has appreciated so much, so as ever it is a question of priorities. With a limited spend we need to think about exactly what will keep us moving most effectively in our chosen direction. For any readers who are thinking of doing the same as we have it is probably worth mentioning that we bought the farm at the end of 1999 and are still investing. We hope to sell some wine in 2005. A six year lead time if you want to start as we did from scratch. The advantage is you are not restricted by the decisions other people made before you.
The farm was looking stunning for J-C's return. Everything was really green and vibrant. The vineyard environment was looking healthy and balanced. Growth was nice and even and there are lots of wasps, bees and ladybirds around. The only problem is the same old erinose mite on the bottom block of Cab. The growth tubes were all in place up in the top Cab and hopefully this will help get the vines a lot more even this season up there. The guys gave the older vines their first tipping (just the longer shoots, to give the shorter ones time to catch up) and cut every second row of cover crops. J-C thought we had the best looking oats in the valley! Saansie had done a great job while J-C was away. The staff were all happy and well, as well as the dogs. Lilly still didn't seem to want to grow much, but Jack was flowing out of the kennel. Towards the end of the month the team were busy suckering and putting in the last of the growth tubes. These were now working brilliantly against the buck, and the top cab should be nice and even after this season's growth. There was a bit of rain so we gave the older vines their second application of Bordeaux mix, and the younger vines their first. As the canopies are nice and open they only sprayed in every second row to keep the external intervention to the minimum. This application will also help with the erinose mite. In the cellar J-C sent barrel samples in for analysis. At this stage he is looking for any volatile acids. This is caused by tiny concentrations of the bacteria acetobacter which cause acetic acid build up. In tiny amounts it is not detrimental to flavour, maybe even enhancing it, but anything approaching 1.5g per litre is vinegary. As we are doing everything with the least intervention we must monitor constantly and be alert, but there is not much you can do if the wine is spoiled. J-C also racked the Syrah to separate the lees and any precipitated tartrates from the clear wine. In the process the barrels are cleaned and the wine goes back in. This also allows the wine to be slightly aerated and advances the maturation process. In the end the analysis showed no sign that TMV had produced the most expensive vinegar in the world, so a sigh of relief all round. Tom G-W, John M and J-C are looking forward now to what will probably be the biggest decision of their vinous lives. They need to decide on the blend(s). This will set the tone for many years to come. Basically they will be deciding what sort of wine(s) can be made from all the various barrels of wine that are in the cellar. Each barrel will taste different from every other one, either radically different because it is from a different grape variety or just slightly different due to the micro environment inside the barrel or how the wine was handled. TMV will not be releasing 64 different wines in minute quantities so which barrel is blended with which will be the most significant decision TMV will make since inception. The big tasting is planned for December. Once the proportions are decided the blending will take place and the wine will go back into the chosen barrels to finish maturation. There will be no going back then. Copyright © 2000 Tulbagh Solutions. All rights reserved. |
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